Arles is not a city to simply visit; it is a city to traverse slowly, to scrutinize from every angle, to contemplate in the shade of plane trees, and above all, to feel in rhythm with its millennial stones and colors. Here, art is inscribed in the walls as well as in the wind that stirs the grasses of Camargue, blending Roman vestiges, contemporary scenes, and bursts of Provençal light.
What you need to know about the history of Arles: from ancient city to cultural capital
Before becoming a haven for artists and photographers from around the world, Arles was first a center of civilization. This southern city, nestled between the Mediterranean and the Alpilles, has witnessed over two millennia of human history. Exploring Arles is like traveling through time without leaving the sunshine.
From Greek origins to Roman splendor
Arenas of Arles
It all began around the 7th century BC, when Greek sailors from Phocaea founded the city of Arelate, "the city between the waters." Its location on the banks of the Rhône quickly made it a strategic crossing point, a commercial hub between Italy, Gaul, and Spain.
In the 2nd century BC, Arles came under Roman influence. The golden age began. The amphitheater, the ancient theater, the Baths of Constantine, the Roman circus: these spectacular monuments testify to the importance Arles held in the Empire. Under Emperor Constantine, it even became the capital of Gallia Narbonensis and an imperial residence.
Middle Ages: between faith, commerce, and power
After the fall of Rome, Arles endured the tumult of invasions but retained its influence thanks to its bishopric and strategic location. Integrated successively into the Visigothic, Frankish kingdoms, and then the Holy Roman Empire, it maintained significant political and religious importance.
The Arlesian Middle Ages also saw the rise of flamboyant Romanesque art, embodied by the church and cloister of Saint-Trophime, sculpted masterpieces where biblical stories and episcopal ambitions are depicted. The city prospered thanks to viticulture, river trade, and an active population, even as it was caught between the ambitions of the Counts of Provence and the papacy.
From the Renaissance to the Revolution: a regional center in transition
In the 16th and 17th centuries, Arles adapted. Although it lost some of its political power, it remained a regional hub where beautiful mansions were built and ancient monuments restored. Its connection with the Rhône weakened as maritime ports took over trade, but the city retained a strong cultural influence.
The Van Gogh turning point: Arles, muse of painters
It was in the 19th century that Arles experienced a new artistic life. In 1888, Vincent van Gogh stayed there for a few months and created some of his most iconic works. He found a unique light, vibrant colors, and a lively daily life that he transformed into paintings. This intense period (nearly 300 works in a year!) marked a return of art to the city.
From the 20th century to today: Arles, capital of creation
Since the 1970s, Arles has fully reconnected with the artistic avant-garde. The Rencontres de la Photographie, created in 1970, transform the city into a laboratory of images every summer. Roman and Romanesque heritage becomes the setting for contemporary exhibitions. Abandoned industrial sites, deconsecrated chapels, and private courtyards host performances, videos, installations, and debates.
Today, Arles embodies one of the finest examples of dialogue between history and contemporary creation. Between its ancient stones and avant-garde galleries, it blends past and present in a unique artistic dynamic in Europe.
Arles, an open-air museum city: between Roman grandeur and contemporary effervescence
Arles, between Roman heritage and artistic modernity
Dive into the antique heart
Start in the historic center of Arles, where the Arenas have stood proudly since the 1st century. This Roman amphitheater, which could accommodate up to 20,000 spectators, once vibrated with gladiator battles. Today, it continues to host bullfights, concerts, and shows, blending history with the present in a striking atmosphere.
Nearby, the ancient theater reveals the outlines of a stage once animated by dramas and comedies. Meanwhile, the cryptoportico, a vast underground gallery built under the forum, offers coolness and mystery. This enigmatic place sometimes hosts exhibitions blending archaeology and contemporary art.
The ancient vestiges of Arles are not frozen in time: the southern light that bathes these stones continues to inspire photographers and artists. This unique atmosphere transforms every street corner into a living tableau, every wall into a canvas for artistic expression.
When night falls, Arles reinvents itself
As night falls, the narrow streets of the center come alive. Festivals, vernissages, performances, and ephemeral frescoes appear. The urban space becomes a true open-air gallery, a playground for creators.
Medieval treasures: spirituality and sculpture at the heart of Arles
The Saint-Trophime Church: a masterpiece of Romanesque art
Portal of Saint-Trophime Church, © Jean-Christophe BENOIST via Wikipedia
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Saint-Trophime Church captivates with its imposing Romanesque portal. A true stone book, it tells the great biblical scenes through intensely sculpted figures. At the center, Christ in Majesty dominates the composition, surrounded by the apostles, angels, and symbolic figures of the Tetramorph—lion, bull, man, and eagle—representing the four evangelists.
The Saint-Trophime Cloister: between silence and contemplation
Once through this portal, the visitor enters the Saint-Trophime Cloister, a true architectural gem. Its galleries lined with sculpted columns invite meditation, where each capital tells a biblical scene, a fantastical creature, or a vegetal motif. A place where time seems suspended, conducive to daydreaming and observation.
The Alyscamps: the mythical necropolis painted by Van Gogh
Field of sarcophagi in the Alyscamps promenade, ©Trajan via Wikipedia
A short distance from the city center, the Alyscamps district reveals one of the largest Roman necropolises in ancient Gaul. Lined with century-old cypress trees, this long avenue of sarcophagi tells centuries of memory, spirituality, and pilgrimage.
This mystical place was immortalized by Van Gogh and Gauguin, captivated by the filtered light and solemn atmosphere. Today, the Alyscamps still host open-air exhibitions, blending funerary past and contemporary creativity.
Exploring the museums of Arles: between ancient archives and living art
Musée Réattu: art through the centuries
Housed in a former Gothic priory, the Musée Réattu pays homage to the painter Jacques Réattu. It offers a dialogue between painting, drawing, photography, and contemporary art. Visitors can also discover works by Picasso and a remarkable photographic collection, echoing the visual history of the city.
Musée départemental Arles antique: immersion in Roman Provence
A must-visit to understand the grandeur of Roman Arles, this museum presents sarcophagi, mosaics, sculptures, and everyday objects, as well as a reconstructed Roman boat. The bust of Augustus holds a place of honor, testifying to the city's strategic importance in the Empire.
Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles: a bridge between memory and modernity
In the former Saint-Julien hospital, the Van Gogh Foundation celebrates the genius of the painter while exploring contemporary forms. Residencies, temporary exhibitions, and workshops make it a dynamic place, always in dialogue with Van Gogh's legacy.
Espace Van Gogh: an immersive sensory experience in the painter's universe
Located in the center, Espace Van Gogh offers an immersive experience through interactive devices and projections, revealing the influence of Arles on the painter's work. A poignant stop to grasp the impact of the city on his art.
Arles, a laboratory of creation: art beyond walls
Fondation LUMA: visionary architecture for global art
Installed on the former SNCF site, the LUMA Foundation is a spectacular place designed by Frank Gehry. Between the monumental tower, rehabilitated wastelands, immersive exhibitions, and artist residencies, LUMA is a creative hub where ecology, design, art, and innovation meet.
Arlesian galleries: the diversity of perspectives
Galerie Huit: photography, textiles, and contemporary art in a mansion.
Galerie Regala: abstract and contemporary painting in the heart of Arles.
Galerie Anne Clergue: mainly exhibits photographers, with a focus on discovering and promoting young talents with unique perspectives.
Galerie Berès: Japanese and French photography, between avant-garde and heritage.
Fisheye Gallery: contemporary photography and rare editions.
Alternative spaces: Arles and its artistic curiosities
Atelier Tchikebe: contemporary screen printing and limited editions.
Le Méjan – Fondation Actes Sud: photo and literary exhibitions in a neo-Romanesque chapel.
Fondation Lee Ufan Arles: neo-minimalist works in a space restored by Tadao Ando.
Croisière Arles: performances and installations in industrial wastelands every summer.
The Rencontres d'Arles: world capital of photography
Every summer since 1970, Les Rencontres d'Arles transform the city into the international capital of photography. Created by Lucien Clergue, Michel Tournier, and Jean-Maurice Rouquette, the festival hosts more than 40 exhibitions, spread across often atypical venues: chapels, mansions, old factories, or cloisters.
A 2025 edition under the sign of Southern cultures
The current edition honors Australia and Brazil, with 160 artists in 53 partner municipalities. The image becomes a critical tool, revealing the tensions of the world as well as its beauty. It is in Arles that one of the major chapters of world photographic history is written every summer.
Arlesian artists on Artmajeur: a vibrant local scene
Arles, a city of images and light, also shines through its contemporary artists present on ArtMajeur. They embody the richness of a local scene nourished by history, territory, and a gaze turned towards elsewhere. Photography holds a place of choice there, like Claude Noyer, whose humanistic shots document the life of Gypsy communities, or Michel Wayer, who captures in black and white the discreet poetry of everyday life. Romain Boutillier blends fiction and reality in sensitive images, while Dorothy Gales'Eyes explores urban and desert landscapes with a gaze that is both tender and committed.
Alongside them, other approaches express themselves with strength. Trebor questions our perception of the real through unexpected visual compositions, and Starmonkeyz, an audacious duo, subverts the codes of pop culture to better reveal its social issues. This diversity is also found in painting, collages, and street art, carried notably by Emeline Girault, Pierrette Pejac Prophete, or even Rezine69 Ks, a graffiti artist and calligrapher with futuristic influences.
Together, these artists form a creative ecosystem that makes Arles much more than a backdrop: a true source of inspiration.
Discoveries around Arles: visit tips to escape the city
To extend your artistic immersion outside the city center, several major sites around Arles are worth a detour. Here are three suggestions for visits that combine nature, history, and art:
The Pont Van-Gogh (or Pont de Langlois)
This emblematic bridge, made famous by Vincent van Gogh in 1888, is a perfect place for lovers of painting and photography. We advise you to go there at the end of the day: the low light of the setting sun sublimates the reflections on the canal, almost recreating the chromatic ambiances of the Dutch master. Easily accessible by bike, it also offers a beautiful stop during a ride along the Arles to Bouc canal.
Pont Van Gogh, Arles, © G u i d o via Wikipedia
The archaeological site of Barbegal (Fontvieille)
For lovers of ancient history, do not miss the remains of the aqueduct and the hydraulic mill of Barbegal, often nicknamed "the largest factory in the Roman world." An astonishing place, a little off the beaten tourist paths, which we advise you to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon to enjoy the calm of the site. Bring comfortable shoes: access is via a path in the middle of the garrigue.
The Abbey of Montmajour
Ideal for a cultural and contemplative outing, this medieval abbey offers an exceptional panorama over the plain of Arles. We recommend spending at least two hours there to explore its different architectural periods and climb to the top of the Pons de l'Orme tower. A place often favored by photographers for its light and volumes, it is best to avoid peak hours in summer to better savor its peaceful atmosphere.
Cloister of the Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Montmajour © Selmoval via Wikipedia
Where to have a drink and enjoy yourself in Arles? Our favorites
The Camargue Social Club
A festive atmosphere and local cuisine on the menu! This lively and unpretentious place honors local flavors: gardianne de taureau, Camargue rice, and homemade cocktails immerse you directly in the Arlesian spirit. Ideal for an evening with friends or a lively meal after a day of exhibitions.
L'Arlatan
Want a more artistic setting? Head to L'Arlatan, nestled in a superb design hotel signed by Jorge Pardo. The Mediterranean cuisine is refined and sunny, with local products well highlighted. Special mention for the inner courtyard, perfect for lunch in peace or dinner under the stars.
Le Chardon
A haven for foodies in search of surprises! Here, no fixed menu, but a "Feed Me" menu that follows the seasons and the chef's inspiration. Between creative dishes and well-chosen natural wines, it's the address we recommend with our eyes closed to lovers of inventive gastronomy.
RAVí – For an ice cream with taste
A sweet break not to be missed. Behind its small facade, RAVí delights with its audacious flavors and ultra-sourced ingredients: organic goat milk from Luberon, seasonal fruits, fresh herbs... Absolutely to try: lemon-basil or verbena-orange, real bursts of freshness!
In summary:
Arles is not a city frozen in its Roman ruins. It is an open-air workshop, a living canvas between past and present.
Here, art strolls through the streets, paints its colors on the walls, invites itself to the table, and prints itself on the film of an old Leica.
And you? Ready to swap your tourist guide for a sketchbook or an old Rolleiflex?
Nicolas Sarazin